Overview
Canvassing four superb Arkansas State Parks, our five-day tour covers more than 200-miles, predominantly on scenic roads; sweeping through Lake Ouachita, Lake Greeson, DeGray Lake and Lake Hamilton, as well as the Little Missouri wild and scenic river.
At Hot Springs National Park, we soak up our nation’s first federal preserve: established by president Andrew Jackson a full 40-years before Yellowstone became our first national park. At the nearby 100-year old Ohio Club, we enjoy a smart cocktail in the jazz-blues club where Al Jolson and Mae West headlined.
Though the draw has always been the healing, rejuvenating waters—143-degree thermal—trust our gut, Memphis has nothing on Hot Springs. From Stubby’s to the iconic McClard’s (Bill Clinton’s favorite BBQ joint), we come away with a great regional taste served up graciously by the area’s famous pitmasters.
Day 1-2: Meet in Little Rock, (pop. 200,000) Arkansas’ capital. Shuttle 50-miles southwest to equally historic and colorful Hot Springs National Park: the only national park set within a city. Nicknamed “the American spa”, Hot Springs is home to some powerhouse personalities in BBQ cuisine, known as pitmasters. But that’s not to slight 90-year old, family-owned McClard’s Bar-B-Q, celebrated from cable TV to newspapers, splashy travel magazines to culinary hardcovers. Hickory smoke to titanium spokes, the area’s also come to be known as the cycling hub of The South, hosting a burgeoning number of bike races and CycloCross events. Our first stage follows the Hot Springs Loop, and over the Clinton Bridge, arcing in and around the 2753-ft Ouachita Mountains. (Stretching from western Arkansas into southeast Oklahoma, the Ouachita’s ultimately join the Appalachians.) Plying this razorback route, a state scenic highway, we roll up to a local creamery, savoring small-batch ice cream. As we close out the day, the theme becomes tiny bubbles. First, we rest legs in grand Southern style. Proud to call itself “completely out of time and place,” Bathhouse Row is an Arkansas treasure: a stretch of spas built atop 47 natural springs that became the onetime haunt of Al Capone, Frank Costello and Lucky Luciano. From a massage at one of the landmark bathhouses, we settle in to the Superior Bathhouse Brewery. Not only the first brewery established within a national park, Superior’s brewmasters are pioneers: the first to turn 144-degree thermal spring water into a variety of craft beers. Day Two/Act One unfolds on the Four Lakes Loop. From Hot Springs, the day’s stage sweeps towards Delight (pop. 279), hometown of The Rhinestone Cowboy, Glen Campbell; as well as the World Championship Squirrel Cook-off. We’ll base in Delight for the evening, but the day’s ride continues onto Lake Hamilton: the first of the aforementioned lakes. On State Scenic Route 7, the stage progresses toward 13,800-acre DeGray Lake Resort State Park. Set amidst the densely wooded foothills of the Ouachitas, DeGray is dialed: from golf course to marina, a wonderfully secluded shoreline where the trees finally give way, not to mention a handsome restaurant and lounge. Like a compact version of Lake of the Ozarks, its crystal blue waters provide standout Largemouth bass habitat; while interpretive guides lead floating tours to view Bald eagles.
Day 3-4: The day’s opening stage leaves Delight for Glenwood (pop. 2100), 30-miles west of Hot Springs. This stage is a gem, in all senses. While the approach to Crater of Diamonds State Park is supremely easygoing, don’t be surprised if diamond madness sets in once you enter the 911-acre preserve. But hey: no pressure, no diamonds. The only aboveground mine in the world where a visitor can sift a field for diamonds… and keep what you find, Crater of Diamonds gave up the fifth largest ever but a few years ago. After a good rain, a young lady visiting from Colorado found a 4.64-carat Esperanza diamond. From this field of dreams, our stage wends its way to Daisy State Park. Set in the Ouachitas, 7,000-acre Daisy State Park edges not only Lake Greeson, but also the Little Missouri wild and scenic river. A rocky-bottom mountain river, the Little Missouri flows for 147-miles through narrow, forested canyons. Come spring and summer, this stretch comes to life with float groups and fly fisherman. Day Four unfolds at Hot Springs Village. This stage, the longest, if not the prettiest leg passes through Lake Ouachita State Park; east, along the lake’s north side. En route, our tight and friendly peloton enters the quaint town of Mount Ida. Gateway to the 1.6-million acre Ouachita National Forest, Mount Ida cuts a cute figure: primarily as a thriving arts colony, and figuratively, as “the quartz crystal capital of the world”. After a stop at a local diner, we surge toward the town of Story. The day ends at the Los Lagos Hotel, an all-inclusive 26,000-acre timeshare resort 20-miles from Hot Springs National Park. Decompress with a hike or horseshoe.
Day 5: The day’s stage begins at Hot Springs Village; then surges to Hot Springs National Park. Our sure shot view-finding route wraps around the east side of Lake Ouachita, into Mountain Pine, (pop. 770), a 1920s company town built by Dierks Lumbar and Coal. (The mill closed and was carted away some 12-years ago.) The day’s final stage circles back to Hot Springs National Park.
A wonderful distilling of rich Americana and dazzling Southeast backcountry, our Hot Springs/Four Lakes Road Bike tour represents a superb fit for the cyclist keen for miles, matched by equally big slices of down-home flavor, color, history, and yes… quirks. “Snow cream with your possum pie?”