Overview
Less ice, more true wilderness. While big swathes of North America deals with snow and icy roads, we consider our great fortune: to enjoy exemplary outdoor wintertime adventure in the heart of the Mojave Desert, from Death Valley National Park to Red Rock Canyon.
Roam America’s second largest National Park: 3,373,063-acre Death Valley National Park. Despite its rather foreboding name, Death Valley represents a stellar trekking destination. Hikers and bikers, climbers to rock hounds come to marvel at Spring’s astounding wildflower blooms and often return to enjoy the mild temperatures of fall and winter. Outdoors people will relish 3,000-square miles of headspace, while cyclists find enviable elbowroom afforded by 350-miles of road and trails. (A full 91% of Death Valley is designated wilderness.)
Stopping to visit historic sites, we cycle across the big valley floor. Most sites are accessed by 1930s-era Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) roads. Almost immediately we come to appreciate a very subtle legacy of the CCC: the bygone wisdom seen in roads built to respect, rather than conquer the landscape.
We navigate around sunbaked foothills, knolls, and stacks of boulders etched in yellow clay, rose and tan. A long time ago, these fantastic landscape features served as the backdrop for the first Star Wars film, Death Valley standing in for the planet Tatooine.
Each day in this storied place—contemplating 20-mule team wagons, Death Valley Scotty, the lost 49ers—you wake up to an unfettered horizon. The evenings are given over to serious unwinding: watching the two-mile high Panamint Mountains transition from shades of cool blue to a deep, purple bruise as the evening light drops away. In the other direction, the Amargosa range to the east is radiant, bathed in bronze tones.
When you experience these lands by road bike, led by people who have a deep connection to Red Rock and Death Valley, you’ll quickly learn this is not a place to be endured, but rather a world-class outdoor recreation destination.
Day 1-2: Meet-up in Las Vegas; then shuttle to Death Valley National Park. Ride to Badwater; An immense, shimmering saltpan 282-ft below sea level. In the distance, the Panamint Mountains, Death Valley’s western wall rises 11,331-ft (or 3,455M at Telescope Peak). Meet the elder statesmen of Death Valley, 1.8-billion year old metamorphic rock at the base of the Black Mountains. Hike from Zabriskie Point, one of the great panoramas in The West, down into Eagle Canyon, the first borax mine works site in the valley (1882). Ride through Death Valley’s deep midsection, yielding a sense of the overwhelming scale and sheer divinity of the 3,000-sq mile wilderness to Stovepipe Wells; a Western-themed way station. Then hike the gypsum-colored sand dunes, one of four dune fields within Death Valley.
Day 3-4: On Artist Drive we dissolve into the Black Mountains on Death Valley’s east. The nine-mile route ascends into a deep canyon; at the top of an alluvial fan we drink in a flabbergasting array of pinks, greens, purples and yellows. Connect Stovepipe Wells to Beatty, Nevada, via Daylight Pass. Reaching Nevada on the park’s northeast edge, our ride gradually descends into the ghost town-turned phantasm-like art colony. Rhyolite speaks to age-old silence, much less the transience of dreams and riches.
Day 5: Shuttle south to the Red Rock Canyon wilderness park, on Las Vegas’s stunningly upswept northern edge. On the celebrated Scenic Loop, we’ll spend the morning hours inhaling rarefied air, plus all the mesmerizing vistas this bike friendly, varicolored wilderness delivers. Our one-way park road loops and winds around vibrant Bighorn sheep and Desert tortoise habitat, slowly wending into the high hilly crescent of Red Rock Canyon.